Arabian bazaar of yore

By : AFTAB H. KOLA

The mystical Muttrah Souk, Muscat's oldest market takes us back in time with its stunning treasures.

During the first half of 2010, 76 cruise ships called at Port Sultan Qaboos in Muscat, the capital of the Sultanate of Oman. The first destination for most tourists, after disembarking from the ship, is the Muttrah souk (traditional market), a stone's throw from the cruise terminal. The souq traces its roots to a bygone era. I have been based in Oman for the last decade but, even after a multitude of visits to the irresistible souk (also spelled as souq), I have not been able to get out without getting lost!

Entry points

I usually enter from the Muttrah corniche side. Instantly you are witness to a pageant that has been played out daily here for uncounted centuries. Earlier people entered from the other end, which was the main gate before the Corniche side became popular. In the days before the 'Renaissance' (1970) - when the present ruler Sultan Qaboos bin Said took over from his father - there was a massive gate leading into Muttrah souq that shut each day at sunset. There are several entry points along the rim of the souq that open to cobbled alleys.

The place exudes a charm redolent of the Arabian bazaar of folklore. Reminisces Abdullah Al Abri, an old shopkeeper: "The original Muttrah souq was built in mud bricks and one spell of heavy rains would inundate the souq with water." The date frond, a traditional material for lining roofs, has been replaced by a fire-proof elegant ceiling. Oman's business magnate - the Suhail and Saud Bahwan group (now split into two) baptised into business from here.

I revisited the souq recently to experience the sight and sounds that elevates my mood. I stumbled upon a foreign visitor who was digging into the treasures at one of the famous shops. The lady, busy culling out stuff from a tray of curios, said, "This is amazing; I did not find such a treasure-trove of old stuff even in Cairo's Khan Khalili and Suq-al-Hamidiyah in Damascus, two of the world's best known souqs."

Akthar Rasool Baksh, the shopkeeper, said, "Here one can go back to days of yore. Feel what it is like to be wearing a 1200-year-old gold and silver neckpiece used by Bedouin women; an 82-year- old mask called barkha embedded with coral, agate, sea pearl, topaz, tiger eye; traditional Arabic ambers said to be millions of years old; 400-year-old amulets worn to ward off the evil eye; coloured corals including rare blue corals, which is over 300 years old; hertz necklaces more than 500 years old..."

Despite the new roof, the setting is ageless. Though there are people through the day Muttrah souq comes alive as dusk falls. The place is the right choice for bargain shoppers and antique hunters through the evening. I jostle my way to get inside among a motley group of people pushing their way in. The fragrance of frankincense wafts through the air as you pass a series of shops selling frankincense (called luban locally) and bukhoor (incense). One of the most invigorating aspects of living in the Gulf is the ancient custom of using frankincense. From the pages of history we learn that Oman was a trading centre for frankincense. which is used for religious observances, burial rites and civic ceremonies. These shops sell different varieties of frankincense and bukhoor. Frankincense is in great demand and you can see the rush at these shops. Perfuming the home with bukhoor is an integral part of daily life in the country. Pieces of perfumed wood such as oud or sandalwood are placed on top of a piece of coal in a special decorated incense burner known as mijmar to produce scented fumes as they burn.

Every nook and cranny of Muttrah souq is a feast brimming with the oldest and most stunning antique pieces; be they coins, natural sea pearls or silver jewellery. Also, on display are khanjars (daggers now worn ceremonially), wooden chests with brass fittings (mandoos), old books, royal swords, neckpieces, masks, headgears and accessories, coffee pots, incense holders, decor pieces, earrings, bangles, chandeliers, copper and silver plates and a host of curios... Also to be seen are wooden carved frames, statues, ashtrays, old wooden doors, coffeepots, saddles and baskets - an enormous collection of items that are soaked in the memories of bygone days.

There are many more fascinating treasures waiting to be discovered in the rustic, charming interiors of the city's oldest market; the mystical Muttrah Souq.

This Article is writeen by AFTAB H. KOLA and published in Hindu dated March 12,2011